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O kaip su NT I Automatinem pavaru dezem? Ar yra bedu? Kaip jos laiko? Kaip su remontu? Ar vis tik geriau mechanine?

Del patogumo zinoma reikes pabandyti. Bet negi nera kas turi, eksploatuoja 4runneri ir papasakotu apie jo bedas?

Sorry Sorry.. As jau ir taip taikiausi itikti gerbemiem tojotistam Siaip nesu itikejes i TLC ar Toyota ir aureoliu jiems nepiesiu. Taciau 4Runner dizainas visai nieko, na ir kaina gana gera, tuo labiau 33" ratus galima be didesnio vargo sudeti. Perskaiciau beveik visas temas kuriose buvo minimas 4runneris taciau nelabai ka suzinojau apart panasiu detaliu su agregatais i TLC70. Gal kas turinciu runnerius gali pakomentuoti. Kokios pagrindines ligos: - elektroje - variklyje (3,0) - dezeje (apd) - vaziuokleje - i ka atkreipti demesi perkant ir t.t.

O kaip tas kur iki 95m ejo? Ar jis taip pat vertas Toyotos vardo? Kokia vaziuokle? Kaip su patikimumu? Su detalemis? Kaip variklis (3,0l) ? Kaip kiti agregatai, skirstymo deze, tiltai, pavaru deze (automatas)? p.s. Sorry Patrol, kad ilindau i tema, bet cia beveik "i tema"...

O sitas modelis ne nuo 95m eina?

Jokiu pertvarkymu nereikia, pakanka nusipirkti Priekinius Europinius Zibintus. Jie puikiai tinka, net jungtys (fiskes) tokios pacios. Idedi ir viskas. Galiniai zibintai tinka ir is JAV atvaziavusiu. Tik reikia isgrezti skylute ir ideti lempute priesrukinems sviesoms, vieta tam yra. Tiesa, dar reikes atvesti laideli nuo priekiniu priesrukiniu zibintu, kad galima butu ijungti su rankenele is salono (tik tuomet isijungs abu vienu metu). Viso sito pakanka praeiti ekspertize it tech. apziura.

Is tikro su sita masina vazineja mano zmona Kolkas duju nestaciau, svarstau ar verta... Del baliono vietoj atsarginio rato, as taip pat galvojau, nelabai patogu toki dideli veziotis bagazineje... Tikriausiai reiketu tvirtinti taip kaip pas ZJ Granda buvo, sone prie stiklo. Pas 99m buvo atsarginis ratas plonas "donut" ar kaip lietuviai vadina "tablete". Toks dar puse velnio butu. Dabar benzino po Vilniu srebia apie 17-18l uzmiestyje 13l. Taciau viskas nuo vaziavimo....

Turejau 99m Granda 4,0 l. Vazinejau metus. Dabar pakeiciau i 2003 4,7l. Skirtumas labai akivaizdus, kuro sanaudoa sumazejo apie 2l o dinamika zymiai geresne. Tai buvo pagrindine priezastis kodel norejau pakeisti masina. Labai jau tas 4,0l letokas, o kuro srebia daugiau. Jei rinktis dyzeliukas tai tik MB 2,7 kuris eina su MB 5 begiu automatu. Taciau kaip rase, ju kainos zenkliai skiriasi, o lyginant 100km kaina su dujomis ir dyzeliu beveik nesiskiria :wink: Kolkas esu patenkintas Jeep'uku ir nesiruosiu jo keisti. Zinoma visada yra kazkas geriau ir yra visokiu nuomoniu. Manau tai gana geras visureigis uz prienama kaina. O ta kaina tokia tik del masinio ju importo is JAV.

Neturiu po ranka Owners Manual'o ZJ tai iskopijavau is WJ manualo: 17. O/D (Overdrive) Off Indicator Light — If Equipped The O/D OFF button is located on the gear shift lever. This light will illuminate when the O/D OFF button has been selected. This light will come on for 3 seconds as a bulb check when the ignition is first turned ON. Overdrive For most city and highway driving. The transmission contains electronically controlled 4th and 5th gears (Overdrives) and will automatically shift from D (Drive) to 4th and 5th gears if the following conditions are present: ² The transmission selector is in D (Drive). ² The O/D OFF switch has not been activated. ² Vehicle speed is above approximately 48 km/h (30 mph). ² Transmission has reached normal operating temperature. When frequent transmission shifting occurs while using overdrive, such as when operating the vehicle under heavy load conditions (for example, in hilly terrain, strong head winds, or trailer towing), turning off overdrive will improve performance and extend transmission life by reducing excessive shifting and heat buildup. 4th and 5th gears (Overdrive) can be locked out by pressing the O/D OFF switch located on side of the gearshift lever. The O/D OFF indicator light will illuminate to show that the switch has been activated. When the light is on, 4th and 5th gear (Overdrive) is locked out. Pressing the switch a second time restores the Overdrive function. The lockout feature is useful when towing a trailer or carrying a heavy load. The O/D OFF feature must be selected, if desired, each time the engine is started.

Cia tikrai maximumas, priklausomai nuo gamintojo toks dydis yra 30,5" Tokiam paciam Grandui - 265/65R17 (30,7") jau siekia susukus vaira, reikia kelti 2". :wink:

Turi omenyje originaliai stovi excentrikai? :shock: Buvau palindes, kai dare suvedima, tai tie sarnyra "centriniai" atrodo. Gerai butu, kad reguliuotusi... Bet kiek teko dometis tai originalus per centra stovi. Vis ruosiuosi uzsisakineti, bet taip dar ir neprisiruosiau.... Atsirado ir WJ: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=002

Va dar cia step by step instaliacija tos varzeles: You need a 10k ohm 1/4watt resistor from radio shack. You can get a 5 pack for $0.99. Clip one of the two IAT wires (doesn't matter which) and solder this resistor inline. It also doesn't matter which direction the resistor goes in. Be sure to buy some heat-shrink tubing so that you can cover up the solder joints and resistor. Buy heat shrink tubing only very slighly larger than the diameter of the resistor. This stuff doesn't shrink too much. It helps if you actually remove a small section of the wire, instead of just clipping it in two--this will keep the wire from 'bowing' away from the other wire and making it hard to tape them together for a clean install. Make sure you make good solder connections or you will trip your Check Engine light due to a flaky connection. Step-by-step: 1) Peel back tape from wires leading to IAT sensor 2) Clip one of the wires going to the IAT sensor 3) Clip that wire again to make it a bit shorter (roughly the length of the resistor that you're going to put inline. Be aware that you are going to cut most of the length of the legs off of the resistor, as it is not necessary for them to be that long). 4) Strip the ends of the wires 5) Clip the resistor legs so that you've got about 1/4" to 1/2" sticking out of each side 6) 'Tin' the resistor legs by heating them with the soldering iron and melting some solder on them. Only a very, very small amount of solder is necessary... just enough to coat the wire with solder. 7) 'Tin' the ends of the wires the same way. 8) Hold one of the resistor legs to one of the ends of the wire and heat with the soldering gun until the solder joins. You can tell it's a good solder joint when the solder 'clinches' together and becomes one piece of solder. 9) Slide the heat-shrink tubing onto the wire, and keep it away from the soldering gun. 10) Solder the other leg to the other end of the wire. 11) Slide the heat shrink tubing onto the resistor and solder joints. Make sure it's all covered up and heat with a lighter or match. Be careful not to burn the wire or heat-shrink tubing during this process. Hold the flame at least 1" away from the tubing. 12) Tape up the wires again to make them look stock. 13) Start the engine and verify that the Check Engine light is not on. If it's not, you're all set. If it is, go back and check your solder connections.

Sorry issiunciau gerokai veliau nei parasiau, tai gavposi , kad pasikartojau

Na cia nera visai teisinga, nes oras yra dujos kurios gali isreteti arba sutanketi. Geresnis pralaidumas mazina isretejima ir realiai siek tiek daugiau deguonies (kuris ir atlieka visa darba ) patenka i atmosferini varikli. Taciau sportiniai filtrai tai tikrai nera tas stebuklas kuris taip jau didina ta galia.... nes naujo standartinio filtro ir "sportinio" pasipriesinimo skirtumas tikrai nera didelis.

Na zinoma nieks nepriestaraus, priesingai, aciu uz pagalba Visdelto noreciau isgirsti daugiau jusu nuomoniu.... As manau jog cia paprasciausia varza ilituota pries oro srauto davikli. Jis juk veikia tokiu principu: Jame yra elementas, kuri EDC kaitina ir stengiasi islaikyti vienodos temperaturos. Kuo daugia oro praeina tuo didesnes sroves reikia norint islaikyti temperatura. Taip EDC nustato oro (deguonies) kieki patenkanti i varikli. Istacius papildoma "varzele" EDC bus priverstas sukelti srove, ko pasekoje "galvos" jog i varikli patenka daugiau oro ir reikia didinti kuro kieki.... Tikriausiai is cia ir gaunamos tos papildomos 20HP Ka manot

Cia dar panasus produktas tik jau net 5$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=009

Skaiciau as visa ta aprasyma, bet cia, manau, tik reklaminis tekstukas. Suprantu ECU perprogravima arba jo veikimo koregavima. Bet cia kazkokia varzele ar dar koks velnias prijungtas prie oro srauto daviklio. Nezinau ar teisingai, bet persasi isvada jog jis siuncia signala jod praeina didesnis kiekis oro ir tuo tarpu EDC riebina misini, ko pasekoje siek tiek dideja galingumas. Jusu nuomones...

Dairiausi cia po platuji eBay'ju ir uzkliuvo tokie, kaip cia raso, "Chip Module" Ar esate ka nors apie juos girdeje, kas per poveikis, kur jie jungiasi ir t.t. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=020 Dar vienas panasus: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=012 ir dar http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=009

O tarp kitko, uzkliuvo nepriklausoma visu raty pakaba!!! Pamenu buvusiose temose apie visureigiu patvaruma/pravazuma labai visi peike tas nepriklausomas. Tipo tikras dzipas tai tik solid axle ir nieko kito. O cia juk ne koks tai.... plentinis Hummeris?

Radau cia tokia nuoroda, tipo tie sarnyrai vienodi ir ZJ ir WJ ('93-'04): http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/23500.htm Gal kas zinote ar tikrai taip? Nes kitur raso, kad nevienodi tie sarnyrai :?

Pas Grandus nesireguliuoja :? Bet radau toki varianta: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-200 ... dZViewItem Cia kazkodel WJ raso, kad netinka. Gal kas zinot kur LT galima tokiu isigyti? Ir ar WJ'jui imanoma tokius gauti? O gal jie tokie pat kaip ZJ? :shock:

Pas mane 99m su klimato kontrole jokiu bedu nepastebejau, veikia gerai. Del stabdziu, keiciau tik kaladeles, kazkokiu gedimu nebuvo, tik silpnoki siektiek. Reikia priprasti, pradzioje labai erzino... nulipus nuo lengvosios. Stabdziai atnaujinti nuo 2003m. Silpnokas ir 4l variklis, manau su 4,7 butu kur kas maloniau vaziuoti. Pas limited'us dazniau buna blokiruotes abejuose tiltuose - Vari-Lock.

Del technikines tai jokiu bedu, jie neturi galimybes to patikrinti. Bet ziema stabdant (ir jei dar posukyje) gali buti toks efektas kaip rankini stabdi patraukus. Tik del sitos priezasties tas reguliatorius ir stovi. :idea: Vasara tai jokiu bedu...

O ar nebus taip, kad ziema arba ant slapio asfalto, apsisuksi be to reguliatoriaus. :shock: Nes be jo bus vienodas slegis asims, o apkrova tai nevienoda...

Na negi niekas nebande deti didesniu ratu? :?