+ 20HP

[lee-]

kitas dalukas su turbininiais

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Va dar cia step by step instaliacija tos varzeles:

 

You need a 10k ohm 1/4watt resistor from radio shack. You can get a 5 pack for $0.99. Clip one of the two IAT wires (doesn't matter which) and solder this resistor inline. It also doesn't matter which direction the resistor goes in. Be sure to buy some heat-shrink tubing so that you can cover up the solder joints and resistor. Buy heat shrink tubing only very slighly larger than the diameter of the resistor. This stuff doesn't shrink too much. It helps if you actually remove a small section of the wire, instead of just clipping it in two--this will keep the wire from 'bowing' away from the other wire and making it hard to tape them together for a clean install. Make sure you make good solder connections or you will trip your Check Engine light due to a flaky connection.

 

Step-by-step:

 

1) Peel back tape from wires leading to IAT sensor

2) Clip one of the wires going to the IAT sensor

3) Clip that wire again to make it a bit shorter (roughly the length of the resistor that you're going to put inline. Be aware that you are going to cut most of the length of the legs off of the resistor, as it is not necessary for them to be that long).

4) Strip the ends of the wires

5) Clip the resistor legs so that you've got about 1/4" to 1/2" sticking out of each side

6) 'Tin' the resistor legs by heating them with the soldering iron and melting some solder on them. Only a very, very small amount of solder is necessary... just enough to coat the wire with solder.

7) 'Tin' the ends of the wires the same way.

8) Hold one of the resistor legs to one of the ends of the wire and heat with the soldering gun until the solder joins. You can tell it's a good solder joint when the solder 'clinches' together and becomes one piece of solder.

9) Slide the heat-shrink tubing onto the wire, and keep it away from the soldering gun.

10) Solder the other leg to the other end of the wire.

11) Slide the heat shrink tubing onto the resistor and solder joints. Make sure it's all covered up and heat with a lighter or match. Be careful not to burn the wire or heat-shrink tubing during this process. Hold the flame at least 1" away from the tubing.

12) Tape up the wires again to make them look stock.

13) Start the engine and verify that the Check Engine light is not on. If it's not, you're all set. If it is, go back and check your solder connections.

[narius321]

nieko niekas nekeicia.vistiek varikliui bus ragai.cipas-varikliui kaput.tiek ziniu.zinoma jai pinigine stora nera ka diskutuot.

[ovido]

nieko niekas nekeicia.vistiek varikliui bus ragai.cipas-varikliui kaput.tiek ziniu.zinoma jai pinigine stora nera ka diskutuot.

 

Dabar argumentuotai, kas ragai, kam kaput, kodel niekas nieko nekeicia...

Ir keicia ir nekaput ir ne ragai - yra kas isidejes ir nevakar, o jau po 60K km prasuke. Ir kas svarbiausiai pastebeta, jog kuro sanaudos nepadideja.

[DANYLA]

nieko niekas nekeicia.vistiek varikliui bus ragai.cipas-varikliui kaput.tiek ziniu.zinoma jai pinigine stora nera ka diskutuot.

Pats čipas tikrai varikliui nieko nepadarys kitas dalykas yra tarpinė yra žmonių sugebančių ir naujom mašinom ir be čipo padaryt kaput.

Liaudiškai pasakysiu kiekvienas gamintojas sukurdamas automobilį apriboja jo galią tarkim tik iki 80 proc. beabejo jis paskaičiuoja ir visų agregatų resursą o tiuning boksas tą apribojimą nukelia tarkim iki 95 proc. žinoma jeigu be galvos naudotis tuo aišku kad sutrumpės ir variklio resursas ir transmisijos ir važiuoklės ir t.t. :wink:

[narius321]

vat butent.normaliai turbina atlaiko iki max 850 laipsniu temperatura su cipu ikaitina iki 950 laipsniu.ko pasekoje pasidaro per dauk kuro ir per mazai oro.zinoma jai naudoji be proto.